Tree Removal

When you should pull the trigger on a removal.

We’ll always tell you straight whether a tree needs to come down or if it can be saved with a trim. We’d rather lose a job than convince you to cut a healthy tree. That said, here are the calls where removal is usually the right answer:

• The tree is dead or more than half dead. Once the canopy is thinning out and branches are breaking on dry days, it’s a hazard waiting to happen.
• It’s leaning — new lean, not old. Trees that have always leaned are usually fine. Trees that started leaning after a storm or wet spring are not.
• The root flare is exposed or rotted. Hollow spots, mushrooms at the base, soil heaving on one side — the tree is telling you something.
• It’s the wrong tree in the wrong place. A 60-foot silver maple six feet from the foundation is going to be a foundation problem. Better to take it down now than after the basement cracks.
• Storm damage. Major limbs gone, split crotch, torn bark sheets — the tree may technically be alive but structurally finished.

How we actually remove a tree.

For most south-city lots, full-felling isn’t an option — the trees are tight to the house, the fence, the neighbor’s garage, the power line. So we climb and rope it down in sections. Big pieces get rigged with lowering lines so they don’t freefall onto your roof or your shrubs. Brush gets chipped on-site. Trunk wood gets bucked and hauled, or left for firewood if you ask.

What the price covers.

Every removal estimate we write breaks out: the felling/climbing work, the chipping & debris haul, the stump (grind or leave), and any extras like crane assist or permits. No surprise add-ons on invoice day. If we hit something unexpected mid-job (rot hidden in the trunk, a bigger root flare than visible), we stop and call you before we change anything.